Kolkata/Esplanade
Esplanade (এসপ্ল্যানেড Esplyāneḍ) or Dharmatala (ধর্মতলা Dharmatalā) is the core of Kolkata, combining colonial-era buildings with modern developments. It serves as the city's new central business district and is preferred by major businesses, particularly along Chowringhee Road.
Understand
In the mid-18th century, the British began expanding beyond B. B. D. Bagh, and this area was among their earliest developments. They constructed large bungalows and houses along the northern stretch of Chowringhee Road. Only a few of these structures remain today, including The Oberoi Grand, Janbazar Building, Chowringhee Mansions, Asiatic Society, and the Indian Museum.
This district covers the central areas of Kolkata, east of B. B. D. Bagh and the Maidan, Chowringhee Road, Esplanade Row East and Mayo Road. The area consists of neighbourhoods like Chowringhee, Esplanade and Janbazar.
Chowringhee Road (চৌরঙ্গী রোড Chauraṅgī Roḍ) runs north-south from the junction with Esplanade Row East and Central Avenue (Dorina Crossing) to the intersection with AJC Bose Road and Ashutosh Mukherjee Road (Exide More). It is lined up with trees on one side and high-rise buildings on the other, and most of the buildings are major commercial establishments of Kolkata.
Get in
By bus
🌍 Esplanade Bus Terminus also serves several city bus routes, not just the long-distance ones. It is the most obvious way to get here, though there are bus stops to alight at specific destinations within the district.
By metro
Esplanade is served by Blue 1 and Green 2 lines. The Blue Line is useful to get here from northern and southern parts of the city, and the Green Line is useful to get here from Howrah or eastern parts of Kolkata.
By tram
There are only two active routes from 🌍 Esplanade 
, one from Shyambazar, and another from Gariahat. Despite being eco-friendly, this is not the most practical way to get here, especially in peak hours when the roads are congested.
See
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- 🌍 Bow Barracks (বো ব্যারাক Bo Byārāk). A small hub of mainly Anglo-Indian population who have lived here for generations. According to a legend, Bow Barracks was a garrison's mess built for the army during World War I. When the soldiers left India, they handed over the flats to the Anglo-Indians who took them on rent. Bow Barracks is also famous for its Christmas celebration.
Architecture
- 🌍 Esplanade Mansions, 1, Esplanade Row East. One of the buildings previously owned by Jewish businessman David Elias Ezra. The residential building was built in the Art Nouveau architecture style. As of 2022, it is owned by the Life Insurance Corporation (LIC) and houses commercial, railways and other government offices.
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- 🌍 Metropolitan Building (Whiteways and Laidlaw Building), 140, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Esplanade 1 ). It was a famous department store in Kolkata during the British period. This neo-baroque emporium—with domes, a clock tower and arched recessed windows—exemplifies fashionable shopping during the British Raj.
- 🌍 Roxy Cinema, Chowringhee Pl. A single-screen cinema known for its Art Deco architecture. The semicircular building with three viewing levels was originally an opera house, which was converted to a cinema in the 1940s. It has been a cultural hub of Central Kolkata for decades.
Memorials
- 🌍 Glorious Dead Memorial, Indira Gandhi Sarani. Open all day. A memorial dedicated to the fallen soldiers of World War I. Free.
- 🌍 Shaheed Minar (শহীদ মিনার Śahīd Minār, former name: Ochterlony Monument). Locally known as simply "Monument", the British colonial monument is 48 meters high. It is rededicated to the Indian freedom activists in 1969 and the monument was renamed Shaheed Minar.
Museums
- 🌍 Indian Museum, 27, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Park Street 1 ), ☏ +91 33 2249 5699, fax: +91 33 249 5696, indianmuseumkolkata@gmail.com. closed on Mondays. Established in 1814, this was the first such museum in Asia. Among its famous collection is the urn that held the ashes of the Buddha (though this is generally not on display), a Pillar of Ashoka (the three-lion symbol which became the official emblem of the Republic of India) and numerous rare antiques. A varied collection of exhibits include unique fossils, Buddhist Gandhara art and an Egyptian mummy. The Indian Museum has a library of excellent historical value, with a special focus on the British Raj and Kolkata. Admission: ₹10 (for Indian citizens) ₹150 (for foreign citizens).
- 🌍 Smaranika Tram Museum, 6, Esplanade Row E (metro: Esplanade 1 2 ; tram: Esplanade ). 3PM–8PM (closed Th). A museum housed inside a decommissioned tram, showcasing the 150-year-old heritage of the tram system in Kolkata. There's a cafeteria in the museum which serves basic tea and coffee. The cafeteria is considered a great place for adda... ₹5.
Religious attractions
- 🌍 Tipu Sultan Mosque (টিপু সুলতান মসজিদ Ṭipu Sultān Masjid), 185, Lenin Sarani. Built in 1832 by Prince Ghulam Mohammed, the youngest son of Tipu Sultan. People from all sections of society and religions are allowed to visit and take pictures of this historical premise.
- 🌍 Wesleyan Church (Sudder Street Church), ☏ +91 98749 71342. 9AM-10PM.
Do
- 🌍 Curzon Park (Surendranath Park), Rashmoni Ave (metro: Esplanade 1 ).
- 🌍 Indira Gandhi Sarani (Red Road). A road running from Raj Bhavan to the West Gate of Vijay Durg, surrounded by greenery. The road is known for a large parade on Republic Day (26 January) and the Durga Puja Carnival.
- 🌍 Jyoti Cinema, 32/1, Lenin Sarani. One of the most popular and oldest single-screen movie theatres of Kolkata. Hindi films and English Hollywood films used to be screened regularly. The theatre had a steady audience for its comfortable seating, good screen quality and stereophonic sound.
- 🌍 Metro Cinema, 8, Chowringhee Rd. A uniplex cinema hall and a heritage building with Art Deco architecture.
Buy
The Esplanade area is the central marketplace for the people of Kolkata. There are shops ranging from computer peripherals to paint brushes and accessories, from cloth merchants to "foreign" (ফরেন pharen) goods. There are cinemas and restaurants. Major chain retailers include Pantaloons (22, Camac St).
- 🌍 Dr B. C. Roy Market (Maidan Market, Bidhan Market), Dufferin Rd (metro: Esplanade 1 ). It has garments, sports goods and other shops.
- 🌍 Eagle, 12/2 Lindsay St (in front on New Market), ☏ +91 33 98 023 6663. A good place to pick up Indian art films.
- 🌍 Entally Market, 58, AJC Bose Rd. One of the old markets in Kolkata. Shops sell ready-made garments, vegetables, groceries, textiles, margarine, fish and fruits. This market was once famously known for its dairy product shops that provided high quality dairy items such as paneer, ghee, yogurt, condensed milk, cheese and butter.
- 🌍 Handicrafts (Between Sudder St and Surendranath Banerjee Road). It has several shops selling handicrafts. The largest is at the corner of Surendranath Banerjee Road.
- 🌍 Mirza Ghalib Street (Free School Street). It is famous for its second-hand bookshops and second-hand record stalls. Rummaging through the LPs for sale on the street, one may find real gems from the jazz age.
- 🌍 New Market, Bertram St, Lenin Sarani (E of Lindsay Street
). M–F 10:30AM–7:30PM, S 10:30AM–2:30PM. One of the oldest surviving markets in the city. Opened in 1874, it was named Sir Stuart Hogg Market after the commissioner Sir Stuart Hogg and it is still locally known as such. Although the beautiful fountain and benches at the market no longer exist, its popularity has not waned and the beautiful Gothic clock tower recalls the British heritage of the market. New Market is a good place to sample Indian sweet delicacies and generally soak up the atmosphere of Kolkata. There are also a few handicraft stalls inside. The market is in a large red brick building on Lindsay Street (the road parallel Sudder Street to the north). It has got over 2,000 stalls and is a bargain hunter's delight. The shops are arranged merchandise-wise. It is supposed to be the ultimate marketing experience in Kolkata. - 🌍 Shree Ram Arcade, 15A, Chowringhee Rd. Open from 10:00-20:00 from Tuesday to Saturday and from 13:00 - 20:00. on Mondays. Sunday holiday.. Full of garment shops.
- 🌍 Treasure Island. M 1PM-8PM, Tu-Sa 10AM-8PM.
Eat
- Khalsa, Madge Ln (on left side when entering Madge Ln, from Sudder St). offers excellent and cheap Punjabi food.
- 🌍 Mission Cafe, 20 Ganesh Chandra Ave. Vegetarian fast food spot. Dosa, chaats and curry are served at high tables. The cafe is known for its chole bhature, a chickpea dish served in a phuchka shell. Turnover is fast here, not even stools to sit on, but it is nonetheless tasty.
- 🌍 Nizam's (নিজামস Nijāms), 23/24 Hogg St (junction of Hogg St and Corporation Pl). Opened in 1932, the restaurant is known for the "kathi kebab roll". The roll initially became popular among the B. B. D. Bagh officers during lunch time, then became an iconic food of Kolkata. It also serves a special potato roll named after Indian actor Amitabh Bachchan. It has a separate beef counter that serves beef kebab, bhuna, chaap, biryani and khiri (cow udder).
Chittaranjan Avenue and Chowringhee Road
- Aheli, Peerless Inn Hotel, 12, Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2228-0301, +91 33 4400-3900. Authentic Bengali food, served in brass utensils in a Bengali marriage environment. Drinks not served.
- 🌍 Anadi Cabin (অনাদি কেবিন Anādi Kebin), 9A, Chowringhee Rd. Known for Mughlai paratha (মোগলাই পরোটা Moglāi Paroṭā).
- Ban Thai, Oberoi Grand, 15 Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249-2323. M-F 7-11:30PM, Sa Su 12:30-3PM and 7-11:30PM. For an authentic taste of Thailand, visit Baan Thai. Widely recognised as the premier Thai restaurant in the country. Drinks served. Around ₹4,000 for two people. Drinks extra.
- 🌍 Chung-Wah, 13A, Chittaranjan Ave (metro: Chandni Chowk 1 ), ☏ +91 33 22377003. One of the oldest and best places to sample Chinese food. Drinks served.
- 🌍 K.C. Das Sweets, 11A&B, Chittaranjan Ave. Best known for its rasgullas, which is fondly called "rosogolla" (রসগোল্লা) in Bengali.
- New Embassy, 53A, Chowringhee Ln (right on Chowringhee Rd between Shakespeare Sarani crossing and AJC Bose Rd crossing), ☏ +91 33 22827490. Delicious Chinese food.
- 🌍 Rallis, Esplanade, 10D, Chowringhee Rd (metro: Esplanade 1 ). Vegetarian restaurant known for various kinds of snacks. Chats and South Indian foods are common. Famous for non-alcoholic drinks including various kinds of milkshakes.
Mirza Ghalib Street
- 🌍 Kathleen's, Mirza Ghalib St. Pastry shop and an eclectic mix of cuisines dominated by Indian and Chinese styles.
- 🌍 Raj's Spanish Cafe, 7, Sudder St (hard-to-find alleyway entrance close to intersection Mirza Ghalib St), ☏ +91 33 4001 4373. 8AM-10PM. Serves breakfast and espresso-based coffees. Mexican, pizza, and other Western staples. mains ₹100.
Sudder Street
- 🌍 Blue Sky Cafe, 3, Sudder St (on the corner of Chowringhee Ln). The food is cheap, the place is clean and the service is truly fantastic. Great if you are on an extended stay as they offer both Indian and some Western food. You will not find nicer waiters anywhere. Try the freshly squeezed juices.
- Curd Corner, Sudder St (near junction with Chowringhee Ln). This small hole-in-the-wall eatery is quite an institution in the area, and a generation of travellers have gorged themselves on the fresh and thick yoghurt. Check out the filter coffee and 'mock' cappuccino. Service staff don't speak English, which makes it hard when their menu is in English.
Drink
- 🌍 Fairlawn Beer Garden, 13/A Sudder St (inside Hotel Fairlawn), ☏ +91 33 2252 1510. Only serves beer. Eccentric atmosphere with greenery everywhere. Famous among travellers and volunteers. Great place for meeting people and early evening drinking. Snacks and dinner available.
- Super Pub, Sudder St (opposite of Fire Station). Air-conditioned and clean place. Serves beer and hard liquor and seasonal fruit juice. Snacks and eateries are reasonably priced.
Sleep
| This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room: | |
| Budget | Under ₹2,000 |
| Mid-range | ₹2,000–5,000 |
| Splurge | Over ₹5,000 |
Budget
Sudder Street is at the centre of Kolkata's backpacker area, and many of the budget hotels geared towards travellers are on and around this street.
- 🌍 Astoria Hotel, Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 9679, +91 90516 88123, astoria@hotmail.com. Clean, large, albeit drab, rooms with private bathrooms. It has a variety of options for dining and also has fitness amenities. The hotel staff are usually considered helpful, though the receptionist is sometimes considered rude and unhelpful. ₹2,850-3,200.
- 🌍 Bhagirathi Guest House, 30B, Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 98369 93678.
- 🌍 Esplanade Chambers, 2 Chandni Chowk St, ☏ +91 33 2212 7101, +91 99 0313 2621, esplanadechambers@yahoo.co.in. Very clean and reasonably quiet rooms, albeit not massive. Has a free and reliable Wi-Fi service. The staff and the manager are considered very helpful and accommodating. Single from ₹1,400, double deluxe ₹2,200, breakfast incl.
- 🌍 Hotel Galaxy, 3, Stuart Ln (off Sudder St), ☏ +33 2252 4565. Clean, simple, and convenient location with AC rooms. Has kitchen and drinking water supply facilities. The hotel staff are considered helpful. ₹1,000-1,100.
- 🌍 Hotel Jaapon, 30F Mirza Galib St (at the end of Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2252 0657, +91 33 2252 0658. Reasonably clean AC and non-AC rooms available with a very small private bathroom and cable TV. Beds are surprisingly comfortable given the thin and well-worn mattresses, but some rooms are chokingly musty - check before checking in. The hotel staff are not considered helpful. Single: ₹650, AC doubles: ₹1,100.
- 🌍 Hotel Maria, 5/1 Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 0860. dorm ₹80, Very basic, creatively graffiti-ed rooms with and without attached bathroom from ₹300 as of Feb 2015. Grumpy service, cheap laundry, dank bathroom/toilet and no wifi. Very central location, takes no bookings, so arrive early (8:30AM onwards).
- 🌍 Hotel Modern Lodge, 1, Stuart Ln (off Sudder St), ☏ +91 33 2252 4960. Not very modern, but cheap and fairly clean. ₹150 for a single with a shared cold-water bathroom. ₹100-250.
- Hotel Royal Palace, ☏ +91 33 2252 5280, +91 33 2252 4178. Clean and large A/C & non-A/C rooms with private bath, TV, STD/ISD. ₹350-750.
Mid-range
- 🌍 Hotel Lindsay, 8A/8B Lindsay St, ☏ +91 33 3021 8666, sales@hotellindsay.com. The hotel is well-lit and clean. Its facilities, including a room minibar, hot water, tea and coffee, make it a good value four-star property. ₹4,600 double.
- 🌍 Housez 43, 43 Mirza Ghalib St, ☏ +91 33 2227 6020, +91 7595067173, booking.housez43@thesparkhotels.com. All rooms equipped with air-conditioning, TV, and private bath. Rates start at ₹4,950.
Splurge
- 🌍 Elgin Fairlawn, 13/A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1510, +91 33 2252 8767, fairlawn@cal.vsnl.net.in. The building dates to 1783 with many colonial-era relics. Single: ₹5,000-5,600, double: ₹7,550-8,400.
- 🌍 The Oberoi Grand, 15, Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 2249 2323, toll-free: 1800-11-2030, fax: +91 33 2249 9427, reservations@oberoigroup.com. US$375-1,375, ₹10,000.
- 🌍 Peerless Inn, 12 Chowringhee Rd, ☏ +91 33 4400 3900. From ₹10,000.
- 🌍 Hotel Walson, 5A Sudder St, ☏ +91 33 2252 1512, +91 99033 29977, bawawalson@bawahotels.com. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. An upscale new venue that's breaking the trend from the Sudder St backpacker tide. 29 rooms ₹6,000-6,200.
Stay safe
Although most of Esplanade is considered safe, one noted problem here is the drug dealers around Sudder Street. However, as the dealers obviously do not want to draw undue attention to their activity, they are not persistent and are rarely a threat.
Police stations
Connect
There are other smaller internet cafes on Sudder St such as Net Freaks, but they are often very busy.
- 🌍 Gopal's Planet, 7 Tottie Ln (Coming from Sudder St, walk 50m (150ft) into Tottie Ln. On your left-hand side, same building as Raj's Guesthouse, ground floor), ☏ +91 9674273616, gopalsplanet@gmail.com. 8AM-11PM. Friendly, quiet internet cafe off Sudder Street with relatively modern computers, AC and free chai (with Wi-Fi, printers, phone calls, etc.) They also rent bicycles and sell train tickets. Their coffee and snacks are good as well.
- 🌍 Hotline Services, 7, Sudder St (near the Astoria Hotel, at the back of the parking lot between Roop Shringar clothing shop and Metro Beauty Parlour. Identified with a large illuminated sign in red). It has a room jam-packed with high-speed computers, and charges ₹15/hr. They also sell CDs of various styles of Indian music for around ₹150/each and have a selection of hand-woven material and cotton clothing from all over India. The hotline also provides a coffee and snack service.